Petra

 

Views as we hiked the hills in Petra.

Jordan is a wonderful country with many historical sites to see, but if you were allowed only one stop in the country you would choose Petra.  This ancient city with ornate facades carved into the side of sandstone cliffs is incredible.

The city served as a cross-roads of trading routes between the Orient, Europe and the Mediterranean.  It's most prosperous years were between 100 BC and 100 AD where the population approached 30,000 people.  However, trade routes changed, the Romans took over from the Nabateans and Petra began to decline.  It was deserted by the 700's.  An Egyptian sultan passed through Petra in 1276 on the way to Karak -- he is believed to be the last person other than local bedouins to know about or see Petra for over 500 years. 

After being lost for centuries, Petra was discovered by many Westerners (including the author) in the 1989 film, Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, where the exterior shots for the final scenes were filmed.  Others may know it from Agatha Christie's Appointment with Death.  However, neither of these would have been possible without the first "re-discovery", which was in 1812 by a Swiss explorer who disguised himself as an Arab to gain access to the Middle East.  When you travel to Petra it's easy to see how something this large could be hidden for so long.  There is essentially one way in and out, through a mile-long trail in a narrow gorge -- The Siq.

On the night of our arrival, we viewed "Petra by Night".  We  (and about 500 other people) walked down the candle-lit Siq to the base of the Treasury.  Although it was plenty touristy (we all sat on the ground while they served tea, local musicians played unique instruments and the host closed with a speech that included a call for World Peace) it was neat to walk in the canyon and see the stars overhead.  As you can imagine there were not a lot of lights nearby so the sky was full of stars. 


Petra by Night.  Not quite as dark as Mammouth Cave, but close. 



The Siq.  This picture was taken late in the day....as evidenced by the lack of tourists.  The mile-long walk gently slopes, which as the guide book says, "...is barely noticeable on the way down, but is murder on tired thighs on the way back up".  All told it is the elevation change is equivalent to a 45 story sky scraper.  We walked the trail three times.





No these are not the chariot racers from Jerash.  For those unable to make the walk out the Siq, you can ride in comfort in these carts.  If the passengers look to be holding on for dear life, it's probably true.  The drivers go fast so they can pick up their next fare and the road is often ancient, Roman block.  No suspension on the carts either.  Walking wasn't that bad after all.   



The Treasury.  By being carved deep into the rock face, it has been well-protected for over 2,000 years.  This facade was used in the Indiana Jones film. 

  

Grant on what we thought was the Altar at the High Place of Sacrifice.  After this picture, a local informed us that this was acutally a place of preparation for the sacrifice.  I thought that this was a much better picture than the real altar.  It is not known if the Nabatean's practiced human sacrifice.   



Lori bargaining with the local jewelry merchants. 



Petra hill caves.  The Nabateans were bedouins and lived in tents.  The carved caves were tombs, temples, etc. 

  

One of the views on our hike





Time for a rest after a long climb to the High Sacrifice Point



A familiar theme on our holidays....Lori checking with the book on where to go next.

 

The inside of one of the tombs. 

 



Lori and Grant at the beginning of the trail to the Monastery.  Only 800 more steps to go. 



The Monastery.  It was well worth the climb.



We rode donkeys for part of our journey back to the Siq. Unfortunately, it wasn't the uphill part. 





The 5th century churches in Petra have beautiful floor mosaics.  Even better than that, you could view them while enjoying the shade of the canopies constructed to protect the mosaics from the sun.



Petra City Center



The curved portion in the center is an amphitheater carved out of rock.  It seated about 3,000 people. 




Yee Haw!  The entrance price included one free horse ride up the last part of the trail to town.  Lori's guide let her gallop; if you look closely you can see that she's not afraid to whip her steed with the rope. 




Others in the party traveled at a more leisurely pace.